Dear Mr. Genwa Higa:
The reports that I have read about the Okinawa Zoo, is a disgrace with regard to human behaviour. It’s bad enough that Japan is known around the world as the number one killer of innocent dolphins, now your city has let the zoo become an eyesore where animals suffer in unbearable conditions.
In the zoo, you have a beautiful and very sad wolf named Kei. Please allow
her to spend the remainder of her life in the comfort of the Wolf Sanctuary
in Colorado, U.S.A. ….let Key come home….
I urge you to come to terms with your conscience and give the animals in
your zoo the care and respect that they deserve.
I look forward to a positive reply, and remain,
Hi, everyone! Thanks for the add. A friend of mine is moving out of state and can not take her hedgehog, Dori. So, I have agreed to adopt her. I’ve been researching and reading ALL day and have a list of what I consider, based on research, to be the best items needed so I can properly care for her. I’m extremely hard core about pet care. My dogs are my babies. So, I’m a bit nervous about adopting a hedgehog, since I have no experience. I’m hoping I can get awesome tips and pointers in this group. smile emoticon I’m headed to Petsmart after work to buy a large wire cage with a solid bottom, because I don’t want the aquarium she’s currently housed in. I read that the wire cages are better. I’ve read a lot of different info on bedding. If anyone would be willing to give me some suggestions on that, I’d really appreciate it!
- Make sure you do good research on bedding for your hedghog!
- I’m new to the group and actually just posted this question too. haha. I should have read further down the page! I’m adopting a hedgehog this weekend from a friend that’s moving. I’ve been attempting to educate myself on proper care all day. She uses pine bedding, but based on the comments on this thread, it seems that maybe fleece blankets are the better option. She doesn’t use a litter box for Dori. So, I’m hoping I can get one and she’ll use it ok.
- So I got this hedgehog we rescued a new MUCH bigger cage and new food a top tier brand that he is supposed to have (I mixed it half and half with his old kind) he has ate almost nothing in 2 nights and hasn’t drank much either. Do hedgehogs not handle change well?
- You should start with a 75% old/25% new mix. Then in a few days go to 50/50. After another few days go to 25/75 and then finally 100% new. Do it gradually. If it takes a few weeks, that’s fine. (My Abigail will only eat Blue Buffalo. I’ve tried mixing in other brands, she won’t touch them.)
- Many don’t. As long as he’s eating something and drinking something, I’d give it a few days. Much longer, and you might need to syringe feed. I’d also back off on the mix. No food changes until he is eating, drinking, and eliminating normally, then a gradual change (75% old with 25% new, 50/50, 25/75, 100% new — with each phase taking a few days to a week, until elimination is normal).
- I was wrong I misunderstood my girlfriend he is drinking just not eat… he is eating the little amounts of fresh stuff we put in each night but that’s it
- My guess is either that old food is terrible and he doesn’t like it, or you jumped to the 50/50 mix too quickly. I’d switch completely back to the old food; wait until he’s drinking, eating, and eliminating normally (no green or runny feces); and then start transitioning to the new food gradually as described above. In addition, I’d consider making the ultimate goal a mix of at least 2 types of kibble in order to cover more nutritional bases and protect against food strikes that can occur if the formula is slightly changed or unavailability due to a recall, halt in production, or store inventory changes or issues. To do that, you’d simply bring the first new food to the point you want it in the mix (50%, for example) and complete the transition with the remaining new kibble. That would mean 75% old with 25% new food A; 50% old with 50% new food A; 25% old with 50% new food A and 25% new food B; and, finally, 50% new food A with 50% new food B.
- Also, I’d be prepared to syringe feed just in case. Drinking normally is good, but depending on how much fresh food you offer, he may not be eating enough. Unless you’re going to use a well-researched raw diet that covers all known nutritional bases, it’s probably best to limit fruits, veggies, etc to treats in amounts that won’t interfere with him eating his staple diet.
- No we just give 3-5 small pieces of a fresh or vegetable than are about half the size of a dime… sometime a few small pieces of cooked meat.
- I got approached a couple of weeks ago from HWS about a rehome. This one is a female, and I’ve already got my boy, Spork. If I do pick up the female (which I won’t do until after Arthur goes home to his mom), I already know about keeping them un-aware of each other, separate handling/fleece/play time, etc.
My question is somewhat related though to separation… I’m thinking of a critter nation for upgraded housing as Spork is currently in a bin. If I do the two-levels for each “stack” like others have shown on here, can I put her on top, nothing (or storage) in between, and Spork on the bottom (or vice versa)? Or, should I stick with bins?
- PLEASE READ:
Hey everyone! I’m increasingly concerned with how many “accidental” pregnancies have been occurring, and how many people are trying to breed their own hogs when they have such limited experience and knowledge about hedgehogs themselves, so I wanted to do kind of a public service announcement.
I cannot stress this enough: If you are not financially prepared for medical emergencies, if you do not have a mentor, if you do not know how to hand-raise an abandoned or sick baby, if you do not know the origins/pedigree of the hogs you have, if you are new to hedgehog ownership, PLEASE DO NOT BREED.
If you are a new owner, please make sure you take the time to research proper care to avoid accidental pregnancies.